Le Club, C'est Magnifique

Everyone's buzzing about the recently revived Le Club at 1250 Jones on Nob Hill. 7x7 featured the swank establishment in this month's magazine, including images from the opening party, adding notes in the editor's letter, and producing a significant photo spread on p. 118. SFLUXE covered the opening as well, Daily Candy wrote it up, and Yelp has several reviews listed. Why? Because the celebrity-studded micro-hub of the city's social set is quaint, comfy, and relaxed. Beyond that, the service is excellent and the cuisine - divine.

When I tried Le Club with a friend a few weeks ago, we sat at the bar trying cocktails and champagne (their selection is dressed to impress), talking with locals seated on stools in the small room, about the size of an average living room. It was nice. I felt instantly relaxed. Then we went into the adjacent dining room where we were served an intimate dinner. I wanted to try the restaurant since most of the reviews so far have been just about the scene, the history and the setting. What we discovered next I'll admit surprised me.

The original version of Le Club opened in the 60's and later became Charles Nob Hill, then C&L Steakhouse, so it has a history of great steak in its spot, but that didn't give me any reason to expect greatness. I grew-up in Kansas City, one of the culinary centers for incredible beef. So you can say I was spoiled by options in that department. Kansas City has at least 5 nationally recognized restaurants for steak, and ever since I moved to the Bay Area I found maybe three places where I could enjoy their steaks. Maybe I'm just a midwest beef snob, but it's not just the flavor that eluded local restaurants; it's the texture.

At Le Club, I knowingly took a risk by ordering the steak, but it was worth it. I can now say without a doubt that it was the best steak I've ever had in California. (Second prize goes to Roy's at 1st and Mission and third to Kincaid's in Burlingame, by the bay.) Tender, juicy and tasty, the fillet, accompanied by flavorful mushrooms. I wouldn't care if Le Club was a dive. I'd still go back for another one of those steaks any day.

Le Club chef, Bob Cina, prepares Continental fare that takes advantage of local seafood, provides ample a la carte options, and a variety of flavors on a small menu. They don't skimp on the portions, and the temperature is perfect. In the bar, custom drinks add to the local theme including the 'Knob Hill', 'Golden Gate Sunset', and 'Todd's Red Rover', named for Le Club co-owner, Todd Traina and his filmmaking business.

Traina's partner Gina Milano, local restauranteur, also designed the venue and it shows. The lush chairs and cleverly angular tables create a nostalgic ambiance in each of the four rooms (bar, game room, dining room, and billiards room). On the Wednesday night I had dinner there, several locals were enjoying drinks solo and just enjoying being there, while a private party took place in the billiards room and a range of diners came and went. This is not a place where you go for a view of the outside; on the contrary, the action is all on the inside. It's lighter earlier in the week and gets packed on the weekends. And FYI, dinner is only served Wed-Sun. evenings.

For dessert, my friend and I made the mistake of ordering two delightful treats that we couldn't possibly finish, because I never imagined they would be such substantial sizes. Note to self: next time, share just one. For the coup de gras, Le Club has a Cadillac and driver available to drive guests home. I didn't ask how far they will take you, but we were headed to the St. Regis, and that was just fine. After an evening of friendly people, fabulous food, and bubbly flights of fancy, Le Club created a memory I won't soon forget.

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Sarah Granger likes her steaks cooked medium and favors the rose champagne, merci.